Lucky you. Your Cobras are ready to go! My car is disassembled and gets some repair on the body and new paint. After having the Cobra back, hopefully end of February, i want to replace and modify the steering and some other bits and pieces. Lot‘s of work but I‘ll be ready for Davos.
Lucky you. Your Cobras are ready to go! My car is disassembled and gets some repair on the body and new paint. After having the Cobra back, hopefully end of February, i want to replace and modify the steering and some other bits and pieces. Lot‘s of work but I‘ll be ready for Davos.
kind regards
Hans
Hi Hans,
I hope the work goes well. Funnily enough, I started replacing my Sierra steering column with a Corsa electric column before the cold weather started - so I have that job to finish. I also suspect that I have a split in one of the upper welds on my fuel tank, so that will need to come out for inspection. The problem is that I discovered the leak just after filling it up for my autumn trip to Wales, which I had to cancel as a result. So I now have 70 litres of fuel to syphon out before I start!
I also have something to repair at my cobra. Have the same De Dion Chassis than you have. My Diff has too much play. Have bought a Salisbury 3.27 limited slip diff which is in a very good condition. Some month ago I found a blog from you in the uk cobra forum about the diff change. I still have some questions. www.cobraclub.com is not online at the moment.
1) Fit locknuts and remove the CV joint studs. 2) Drop the CV joints, slide off the drive shafts and tie the drive shafts up. 3) Unbolt the propshaft and tie up. 4) Disconnect the handbrake cable from the "horseshoe" regulator. 5) Disconnect the front end of each trailing arm so that the De Dion beam can swing back a little. 6) Support the diff using a transmission jack. 7) Remove the bolts holding the upper diff mounting bracket to the diff (the bracket will be left in place on the chassis). 8) Remove the bolts holding the front diff mounting bracket to the chassis. 9) Swing the De Dion beam to the rear and lower the diff complete with the front mounting bracket. Refitting is a reversal of the above! You need to clean the CV joint studs thoroughly and loctite them into the adapter plates on reassembly. You have to screw the studs in through the CV joint casing - if you screw them into the adapter plates first, you won't be able to get the CV joints over them!
Be careful - the diff weighs over 50kg, and if it topples onto you, your arms or your fingers, believe me you'll know it!
The 3.27 diff is a good compromise, and certainly helps with the fuel consumption on long trips!
If you need more help, drop me a PM or send me an email.
Alan
Last Edit: Jan 7, 2018 11:55:48 GMT by Alan Browse
Also, if not already fitted, I recommend that you use K-nuts when you reinstall the CV joints on the studs. These nuts are thinner with smaller heads, enabling you to use a socket to torque them up. With standard nylocs you can only fit an open-ended spanner in, so they work loose. I used to have to tighten mine every few months until I replaced them all with K-nuts, and they never come loose now.